See every detail, even in fast-moving action scenes or sports. This lowers your running costs and total cost of ownership.Īutomatically adjusts contrast for optimum viewing by analyzing dark and light areas in every scene, without diminishing colour. You can expect a longer lamp replacement time from the VPL-HW55ES: up to 5,000 hours (roughly 60% longer than our standard home cinema projectors). It maximises blacks and whites without diminishing brightness so you won’t miss a detail, even in dark scenes. Optical engine improvements and advanced Iris 3 technology mean we’ve achieved an incredible dynamic contrast ratio of 120,000:1. With Bright Cinema and Bright TV modes, the VPL-HW55ES retains true colour and contrast, even in a bright environment. At 1,700 lumens, it produces clearer images and faithful colours, even in well-lit rooms.Ĭonventional home cinema projectors sacrifice some colour accuracy by increasing greens to improve brightness. Thanks to an improved optical engine, the VPL-HW55ES is much brighter than our previous standard home cinema projectors. 1,700 lumens brightness with faithful colour reproduction.It gives you crisper, sharper Full HD pictures, much closer to the 1080p original. Reality Creation – Super Resolution functionĭeveloped for our leading 4K home cinema projector (VPL-VW1000ES), Reality Creation reproduces colours and textures that are lost when movies are packaged to disc.Note that I've lifted the lower side of the cap up, so that it's standing only on the upper connection of the footprint. I then soldered the 3 wires to the PCB input connector. Basically, I've removed them and resoldered them upright, so as to only connect on one end. On my monitor, the colors shown accurately represent what was shown on the Sony LCD. Resized to 800圆00, then saved as a jpg, compression level 8. Raw format, no retouching afterward, except for a tad of brightness adjustment. Perhaps I'll throw a resistor on each line to tone it down a bit.Īll pictures were taken with fixed white balance on my Canon EOS 300D. I've turned the screen's brightness down all the way, and the picture is still a bit bright for me however, the improvement is more than worth the tradeoff. NO GREEN TINT! The only downside is that the signal is very bright. I then switched over to Persona 4 for 20 minutes, and after deciding that wasn't quite colorful enough, I played Okami for 2 hours 21 minutes straight. I switched it off and ate dinner at this point. So far, I've played 75 minutes of Shin Megami Tensei: Nocturne, and didn't notice any extra green tint. Now for the important part: how you can do it too! All that's required is to find those 3 capacitors, lift one end up (the end that doesn't connect to the signal processor), and connect 3 wires from the input connector directly to those 3 caps! I didn't touch the sync signal at all, and I didn't disconnect the RGB signal from the original circuit, save for lifting the 3 caps. These are inline with the red, green, and blue lines, respectively, and are rated at 10uf.īasically, at this point I thought, "why not bypass all the extra crap?" so I did, and it works! As of this writing, mine has been running for 2 hours 21 minutes, and exhibits NO problem. I found 3 SMD capacitors, marked as CV53, CV54, and CV55. I figured part of that was to be able to switch between RGB and te external composite input, but of course I didn't need that. I was interested to find that the LCD signal processor (Panasonic AN2526NFH) required only a 1uf capacitor on each of the RGB lines, but that Sony had thrown in a bunch of other components - extra caps, IC's, signal switches, resistors, transistors, etc. I started looking at the screen's PCB last week, checking datasheets for the main IC's and tracing signals. I've read segasonicfan's thread, which had eastsider_1's fix for connecting the R and B lines to +5v, and segasonicfan's revised method of jumping R and B together, which did help me, but I found that a bit annoying and figured I could do better. I personally have seen the green tint issue, and on the exact same PSTwo and PSX screen used in this example, the effects were noticeable after 20-30 minutes of play. As of this writing, mine has been running for 2 hours 12 minutes, and exhibits NO problem.įirst off, a little background. Hi all, I've figured out how to permanently fix the green tint issue between the official Sony PSX 5" screen and the slim PSTwo.
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